Categories
food

Calling All Restaurants – Grilled Grouper

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Attention! Attention! All restauranteurs in the Chicago area, I WANT THIS SANDWICH! NOW!!!

Are you ready for a new semi-regular feature on Tasty Chicago? In this feature, I will highlight a regional food item from another part of the country that I want to get in Chicago, but can’t.

This is a grilled blackened grouper sandwich from Mulligan’s Beach House Bar and Grill in Jensen Beach, FL. It was $11.95, which included a two dollar grouper premium (grouper is a local fish probably pulled from the ocean that day). By golly was it good. Grouper is a hearty, meaty, yet mild fish that holds up well to grilling. It takes sauces and rubs very well and most Florida restaurants give you a choice of how you want it finished. Mulligan’s can just grill it, or they can do blackened, Jamaican jerked, or teriyaki. I like the blackened and I usually add some Tobasco, then wash it down with Guinness.

So why can’t I get this in Chicago? Can’t they flash-freeze some grouper and fly it up? Or better yet, can’t you just pull something out of Lake Michigan and slap it delicately on the grill. There has to be some marine life in that lake worthy of a sandwich, otherwise, what’s point of living near a lake. I beg you people, my loyal readers (all 10 of you), help me. Tell me if there is anything comparable in Chicago and where I can get it. Please. Please.

Categories
food

Great Newsweek Article About Food

My favorite section in Newsweek is My Turn, and stories like this one entitled Eat, Drink, Man, Woman (and Child) make me happy to be a subscriber. Hmmm, I guess I’m just clogging up landfills because I could read it online…I have to get that part of my life under control.

Read the story, please. It’s about a vegan woman named Jenny Andrews who has an omnivorous husband named Ken. She says that even though their eating habits are distinctly different, “food is a source of pleasure for us, not conflict.” This is because they both respect what they eat and she realizes that respect for food is not limited to vegans. Jenny says, “Ken sees a chicken as a bird, not a disembodied nugget. He gives thanks for each animal he eats, and savors every last part of it, sometimes stopping midmeal to reseason a dish.”

Ken is a role model. I need to be more like Ken. I don’t want Tasty Chicago to be about consumption of food. I want Tasty Chicago to be about respect for food. Food doesn’t have to be expensive or complicated to be respected. It has to satisfy your body’s need for energy and taste good. If a food item does that, it’s worthy of discussion. It’s worthy of deliberation. And it may even be worthy of fantasy.

Does an occasional trip to McD’s belie a fundamental lack of respect for food as Jenny subtly notes with her “disembodied nugget” comment? I hope not, because I patronize McDonald’s yet I think I respect food. I clean my plate. I don’t order huge portions. If I have to take food home, I eat the leftovers the next day or shortly thereafter. I savor every bite whether it’s a greasy burger from a diner or a delicate grilled fish prepared by my wife. I don’t snack much and I consume most of my meals sitting down. But I need to make strides in this area because at times, along with many Americans, I walk that thin line that separates someone who respects food from someone who has a food dysfunction.

This article has raised my consciousness about this issue of respect for food and it’s something that I’m going to revisit throughout 2007. Stop back, or let me know what you think.

Categories
books

Housekeeping vs. The Dirt

Ahh, a book about books. There are a lot of them out there and I’ve read a few. I never watch TV shows about TV…or movies about film…but I do read books about reading books. If you spend a few hours with Nick Hornby and this short read, you will leave with a new-found respect for reading.

Early on he says:

And boredom, let’s face it, is a problem that many of us have come to associate with books. It’s one of the reasons why we choose to do almost anything else rather than read; very few of us pick up a book after the children are in bed and the dinner has been made and the dirty dishes are cleared away. We’d rather turn on the television. Some evenings we’d rather go to all the trouble of getting in a car and driving to the cinema, or waiting for a bus that might take us somewhere near one.

A few paragraphs later he says:

I would never attempt to dissuade someone from reading a book. But please, if you’re reading a book that’s killing you, put it down and read something else, just as you would reach for the remote if you weren’t enjoying a TV program.

Reading is not an easy endeavor to pick up and as a form of entertainment, it’s a lot more work than the other options. I want people to read more. I want book stores to continue to thrive and authors to have the ability to make a good living. I love the endeavor and if I were to evangelize about anything, it would be reading. If I can convert one human in 2007 to start reading ten books a year, then I have achieved raging success. I have my targets.

That’s the effect that this book had on me. It also caused me ruminate about how important reading is to me and how thankful I am that I got started at a young age, before all the distractions of TV, internet, and gaming. I owe it all to my grandfather. I can’t peg the exact day that I first sat in this strange bamboo-like double chair-couch thing in the corner of the porch in his lake house in Michigan and shared some Louis L’Amour with him, but the memory is as vivid as yesterday. The earliest recollection of reading a book from cover to cover and discussing it with my grandfather happened there, and the book, I think, was Kilkenny.

This book also exposed gaps in my reading experience that I started to recognize here. Hornby makes a self-deprecating crack about how his reading habits are confined to the English-speaking world, as if no other languages are worthy of his attention. I take it a few steps further by nearly exclusively focusing my reading efforts on books by English-speaking white males. Yes, ’twill be rectified, but it’s going to take time.

In this book, Hornby reviews about 60 or 70 books in one or two paragraphs each. He’s an interesting guy and I love his take on things, although sometimes I get lost in the British humor. But he has spent a lot of time in the US and often makes keen insights into our culture. I think there’s one book of Hornby’s that I haven’t read yet and I’m going to knock that off this year. Here are some of his reads from this book that I plan on reading:

Blood Done Sign My Name by Timothy D. Tyson
Persepolis by Marjane Satrapi
Assassination Vacation by Sarah Vowell
Then We Came to the End by Joshua Ferris
The Boy Who Fell Out of the Sky by Ken Dornstein
Citizen Vince by Jess Walter

Categories
books

M is for Malice

One of the reasons I like Tony Hillerman and Sue Grafton so much is the continuity of the main characters. Almost all of their books have the same main characters and it’s fascinating to witness their development.

With Hillerman, I came along in the middle of the stories about Navajo tribal policemen Jim Chee and Joe Leaphorn. I read them out of order, so even though Hillerman is the top dog as far as I’m concerned, it would have even been better if I’d started them in chronological order and went from there (something I will do before I die).

My experience with Grafton has been ideal. I started at the beginning, with A is for Alibi, and have grown with Kinsey Millhone, the main character, over the last 13 books. This book, M is for Malice, is probably the most in-depth study thus far of Kinsey’s emotional state. Grafton really digs into Kinsey’s familial relationships and dredges up some past loves, and the mystery at hand hits especially close to home for this single, thirty-five year old, female private investigator who loves fast food. I’m not going to dig into the plot but to say that it was another solid effort and I enjoyed it thoroughly.

I think that Grafton sometimes tries to hard to make Kinsey kind of quirky cool. Kinsey is cool enough without hearing more about how she doesn’t care about her hair or only has one dress-up outfit (unlike your average woman I guess). I’m not sure why I perceive this, but it could be because I read so few books by women. I just noticed it near end of this book; in the last 34 books, I’ve only read two female authors, Grafton and Casey. And there are none in the hopper, save for more of Grafton. It’s not intentional, but what does that make me? An idiot? A chauvinist? Or are there just more male writer’s than female so I don’t have any choice?

I think of my taste in books as flexible, wide-ranging, varied, open-minded, but am I fooling myself? I gotta dig into this issue…

Categories
food

Tango Sur

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If you haven’t been to an Argentinian steakhouse, drop everything right now and find one. I’m not kidding, just do it. If you decide to go to Tango Sur, at 3763 N. Southport, you can’t go wrong. Although, you’ll be able to pick everything you dropped right back up because you’ll have at least an hour wait if you arrive anytime after of 6:00.

Pictured is the Bife Vesuvio, a special for our visit on a busy March Saturday. My wife and I met another couple here for some beef and pleasant conversation. This entree was $21, but don’t let that $20 plus entree scare you off because it was a bargain of epic proportions. My wife ordered this and I had El Fillet. The portions were so massive that we could have shared one. We took half of each home (yes, El Fillet on toasted sourdough the next day was awesome). I took a picture of hers because it was more photogenic, although they were both worthy of consideration for the beef hall of fame.

The value here is untouchable. The prices are unreasonably low for the portion size and each entree comes with bread, salad, and a starchy side. It’s BYOB and the corkage charge is negligible or zero, so you don’t blow big dollars on alcohol. And everything tastes great. That’s probably why it’s so busy all of the time. I’m talking really busy; you have to wait in line just to wait in line. I stood in line for ten minutes to find out that a table for four was a two hour wait. A young woman took my name at 6:27 and wrote down my mobile phone number. We ran and grabbed our friends and then went and had a few beers at Take Five (about four doors south). At about 8:20 they called and said the table was ready so we walked over and were seated at 8:30 on the nose. Easiest two hour wait ever in the history of America!

Back to the food in the picture, I’m not exactly sure what cut of beef this was and I’m not sure what kind of cheese they stuffed it with (I think provolone). I do know that it was filled with spinach and some standard vesuvio spices like oregano and garlic. It was marinated in a bunch of spices and sauces and, of course, it came with a side of chimichurri. It was a relatively lean and tender piece of beef with explosive flavor.

All the meat here definitely has some spice in it. I never trust those meat-eaters that say “I don’t like sauces and spices on my meat because a well-cooked piece of beef has enough flavor.” SHUT UP! A comment like that has food-snob written all over it. I challenge any carnivore to look Bife Vesuvio in the eye and say “hold the vesuvio spices because it covers up the natural flavor of the beef.” That’s idiotic! As Mike Greenberg would say, “It is what it is.” This is not an American steakhouse and it’s not a Brazilian steakhouse. It’s an Argentinian steakhouse, and it’s a glorious food experience.

Categories
food

Sapore di Napoli

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This is the kind of place that I could frequent daily for the rest of my life and never get tired of it. I could tell as soon as I stepped foot in the small storefront at 1406 W. Belmont in Chicago that it was my kind of place. It’s small. It serves pizza, appetizers, gelato, coffee, and espresso drinks. It’s comfortable and the owners are extremely gracious. What more could you ask for? Oh yeah, the pizza rocks!

Pictured above is the Pizze Margherita, and we added the prosciutto. It was $12. I can never get thin-crust pizza done right at home, I guess maybe an oven that costs about $100,000 would help (I have no idea how much they paid for it). The key is to get the crust done uniformly throughout all 360 degrees of pizza, no matter how thick it is or how much stuff is piled on top. They got it right here.

My wife and I went early on a weeknight so there were not many people there. It seems like the husband works the kitchen and the wife runs the front of the house. They appear to have some Italian roots because when the wife said mozzarella, it sounded like she just stepped off some piazza in Rome. She’s just standing there explaining the menu to us without a hint of any accent, then the word mozzarella comes up and she turns into Monica freakin’ Bellucci. It was cool. After the meal we talked with her about the restaurant, about the bench from a church that lines one of the walls, and what it was like when someone from Metromix came in to try the place.

I am getting more adventurous with the pizza the next time I go, because I will be back.

Categories
books

The Ambler Warning

The pool, the sun, the warmth…ahh, Florida vacations. That can only mean one thing, paperbacks and a lounge chair! How better to fill the paperback side of things than with Robert Ludlum? Well, there are better ways, but he filled the bill adequately.

Keep in mind that Robert Ludlum is dead. This book was published after his death. According to the info on the copyright page:

Since his death, the Estate of Robert Ludlum has worked with a carefully selected author and editor to prepare and edit this work for publication.

Makes sense I guess. It certainly felt and read like a Ludlum book. Huge conspiracy within a conspiracy and lots of action that spanned the globe. Great for reading next to the pool. I enjoyed it.

I’m warning you though, it’s somewhat formulaic. In fact, it felt a lot like The Bourne Identity because the main character was out of commission for a few years in a psych hospital and lost his identity. And much like Jason Bourne, he has a special woman, unfamiliar with spy-craft, who helps him get through this identity crisis emotionally and tactically.

Now, onto some Sue Grafton…the ultimate pool-side paperback queen…

Categories
food

Homemade Meal of the Month Dessert

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As I said, my wife outsourced dessert to one of our guests, my cousin Amy. What a great call, it’s not often that one of the top pasty chefs on the North Shore decides to whip up a gem like this.

Let me tell you, if someone asks me to bring dessert, I stop at Dominick’s and grab some Chunky Chips Ahoy!, some Duncan Hines vanilla frosting, and cross my fingers that the hosts have a clean butter knife in the house.

The last thing I expected, in the dead of winter nonetheless, was homemade chocolate covered strawberries, homemade chocolate-topped mini cream puffs, and homemade chocolate peanut covered bananas. To top it off, it was all served in a heart-shaped dish just to show some love. We partook in this third sitting in the family room again, where it all started. It was a great finish to a splendid meal.

Let’s review. This Formula 1 meal took slightly over three hours, had two chefs, three separate seatings in two rooms, and nobody fought. How great is that?

Categories
food

Homemade Meal of the Month Risotto Cake

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So, this is where Gail really shines. Let’s call it the second sitting, which takes place at an actual table. The main dish was a chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese, prosciutto, and roasted red pepper topped with a marsala wine sauce with mushrooms. The sides were green beans and a fennel risotto cake. The muffin was a store bought job from Trader Joe’s but she popped it in the oven just the right amount of time so it tasted homemade.

I had a glass of red wine with it and things were all good, if you know what I mean. The crack staff here at Tasty Chicago really likes goat cheese and fennel, so this went over well.

Usually, when things get complicated like this, her time is monopolized with cooking. This wasn’t a 30 minute meal Rachael, trust me. But she was able to prepare it enough ahead of time so that she could actually interact with us common folk. I’m not sure how she did it because we are talking delicate sauces, a complicated risotto side dish, and a vegetable. Whatever, I bow to you honey.

It could have been that she felt no dessert anxiety. She actually suggested to our guests that they could “bring dessert if they wanted to,” so she did not have that hanging over head. It turned out to be a great decision so come back soon to hear about it.

Categories
books

The Americanization of Ben Franklin

Before this book, I’ve always had a tainted view of Ben Franklin because of the existence of those Ben Franklin stores. I could never figure them out. Were they supposed to be like a Walgreens, a Wal-Mart, or a Dollar General? Or are they a combination of all three? Well, here is what the Ben Franklin website says about it. Nonetheless, if the store reflected the man, a Ben Franklin store would be more like a Marshall Fields…famous, unpretentious, and dead. No seriously, this was an excellent book and I’m happy that I have a deeper understanding of the man.

He was born in 1706 of humble means in Boston but became famous in Philadelphia. By the time he retired at age 42, he was one of the wealthiest men in America and on his way to becoming a world famous inventor, writer, philosopher, and politician. He died in 1790 and his death was mourned far more by France than the United States. This book walks the reader through Franklin’s life and relates his successes and failures to the tumultuous times of the New World and Early America. I’m going to organize my description in the same way the author organized the chapters. I’m doing so because I think a major strength of this book is the way Wood defines the sections of Franklin’s life in a coherent, easy-to-understand method.

Becoming a Gentleman (1706-1756)
In the early 1700s, you were either a gentleman or a commoner, there was no middle ground. That is, until Ben Franklin turned this situation upside down. Wood says about Franklin:

In effect, he began acquiring some of the attributes of a gentleman while still remaining one of the common working people. In 1727 he organized a group of artisans who met weekly for learned conversation – a printer, several clerks, a glazier, two surveyors, a shoemaker, a cabinetmaker, and subsequently “a young Gentleman of some Fortune,” named Robert Grace, who did not have to work for a living……It was this kind of aspiring and prosperous middling man that was beginning to challenge the hierarchical network of privilege and patronage that dominated eighteenth-century society, and in the process blurring the traditionally sharp social division between gentleman and commoners.

He was so successful in his printing business that he accumulated substantial wealth by his retirement in 1948. However, he did not become a full-fledged “gentleman” until about a decade later after spending many years “organizing clubs, starting libraries, promoting schools, leading the Masons, and becoming involved in dozens of activities that were well beyond the reach and consciousness of nearly all tradesman and artisans.”

Becoming a British Imperialist (1757-1764)
The start of this stage in his life found Franklin consumed with electricity. This interest manifested itself in a book about electricity that was published in America and Europe and solidified his fame worldwide. By the end of this stage he was on a mission to align the interests of America and Great Britain. He loved London and believed that America and Great Britain could coexist and even thrive. Wood quotes Franklin and says that Franklin desired that

…the people of Great Britain and the people of the colonies “learn to consider themselves, not as belonging to different Communities with different Interests, but to one Community with one Interest.”

Wood does not sugarcoat the life of Franklin. It was during this period that Franklin acquired slaves and grew more distant from his wife Deborah. In 1764 he left for an extended stay in London and never saw his wife again, and he didn’t seem to care much about that.

Becoming a Patriot (1765-1774)
Franklin spent about a decade in London trying to get Great Britain and the colonies to get along. By this time, Great Britain was well into the mode of taxation without representation. He brawled with Parliament about the Stamp Act, a tax basically on “nearly every form of paper used in the colonies.” In front of Parliament “he made it clear as possible that Parliament had no right to lay a stamp tax on the colonists, and his pointed responses probably saved his reputation in America.”

Try as he might, through nasty politics on both sides of the ocean, conciliation between Great Britain and the colonies was not meant to be. Franklin eventually started to feel disfavor towards Great Britain and when he sailed for America in early 1775, he was described as “a passionate patriot, more passionate in fact than nearly all the other [American] patriot leaders.”

Becoming a Diplomat (1775-1784)
When Franklin got back to America the fighting had already started. Franklin’s main role in the Revolutionary War was to “seek foreign support for the war.” He went to France, achieved several diplomatic successes, and fell in love with the country (a feeling felt mutually by the French towards Franklin). Wood says,

Not only did Franklin hold the Franco-American alliance together, but he also oversaw the initial stages of the successful peace negotiations with Britain. And he did this all with a multitude of demands placed on him.

This, by a man in his 70s, in a time when people did not live as long as they do now. Wood concludes this section by making a big proclamation,

If Washington was indispensable to the success of the Revolution in America, Franklin was indispensable to the success of the Revolution abroad.

Becoming an American (1785-1790)
As Franklin’s life winds down, Wood brings the book to a rousing conclusion. Immediately before his death, Franklin made an effort to abolish slavery. It was rejected by America but Wood attributes the eventual abolishment of it partly to Franklin.

Virginia and the South always claimed that they had remained closer to the eighteenth-century beginnings of the nation, and they were right. It was the North that had changed and changed dramatically. Because northern Americans came to celebrate work so emphatically – with Franklin as their most representative figure – the leisured slaveholding aristocracy of Virginia and the rest of the South became a bewildered and beleaguered minority out of touch with the enterprise and egalitarianism that had come to dominate the country. As long as work had been held in contempt, as it had for millennia, slavery could never have been wholeheartedly condemned. But to a society that came to honor work as fully as the North did, a leisured aristocracy and the institution of slavery that supported it had to become abominations.

Wow, that is quite a tribute to Franklin. I am going to have to toss it around a little before I buy off on it though.

Great book.